百甞:帕克给中国葡萄酒打分了
帕克给中国葡萄酒打分了
——百甞
年初葡萄酒界的一件大事乃全球最有影响力的酒评家、美国《葡萄酒倡议者》杂志的创办人罗伯特?帕克的网站首次为来自中国的葡萄酒打出了分数。
只要是葡萄酒出产国都会有葡萄酒杂志和葡萄酒专家,也都会为葡萄酒打分,酒商则会在酒单上标明专家对酒的评分,从而推动葡萄酒的销售。
帕克从1978年开始创办葡萄酒分析的邮寄刊物给消费者订购作为购买指南,而且最早的采用了百分制评分体系,八十年代中随着他对1982年法国波尔多葡萄酒的卓越评价脱颖而出,奠定了个人“葡萄酒皇帝”的伟业。无论是旧世界的法国、意大利、西班牙,或是新世界的美国、澳洲、智利,多少老酒庄因为帕克的评分起死回生,多少新牌子因为帕克的评分一举成名。于葡萄酒世界来说,“帕克评分”直接决定了酒的价格和市场影响力,帕克的分数未出很多波尔多酒商甚至都不知道怎么给自己的新酒定价,低于90分的酒很难卖出,而超过95分的酒就可以漫天开价了。
大家都能吃出馒头的好坏,但是给馒头打分?我们能够想象93分的西红柿炒蛋和92分的差别么?但在你面前摆上两个一模一样的碟子、一模一样的菜式,然后碟边挂着分数卡,您肯定也会想一定要试试分数高的吧,这就是人的心理。
在帕克的评分标准中,基于外观、香气、风味、总体质量或潜力等四个因素给每一瓶的葡萄酒打分,得分范围从50到100。
96-100分属经典:顶级葡萄酒。
90-95分乃优秀:具有高级品味特征和口感的葡萄酒。
80-89是优良:口感纯正、制作优良的葡萄酒。
70-79 则一般:略有瑕疵,但口感无尚大碍的葡萄酒。
60-69低于一般:不值得推荐。
50-59就是次品。
帕克网站这次品尝的中国葡萄酒大约20款,山西怡园酒庄的酒最多,天津王朝次之,宁夏的银色高地一款,得分范围从80分以上的9款,三家都有,80分以下的9款,70分以下的两款。
中国葡萄酒依然任重道远啊,但是起码可让消费者知道我们终于也能酿出和世界口味接轨的葡萄酒了,而且市场还能买到。
最后提醒一点,帕克评分和帕克的评分是两个概念,英文简写RP的是帕克个人的评分,表示这款酒是他亲自品尝给的分数;简写WA是帕克网站的品酒师团队的评分。酒商们常常混淆视听,市场上大多标示着RP分数的其实都不是帕克个人给分,年纪大了,很多产区的酒他老人家已经无力亲自品尝了,包括这次中国葡萄酒的评分。
——百甞《深圳商报》-文化广场-万象版之“舌华录”专栏2011年7月7日
帕克的分数标准:
96-100:
An extraordinary wine of profound and complex character displaying all the attributes expected of a classic wine of its variety. Wines of this caliber are worth a special effort to find, purchase, and consume. |
90 - 95:
An outstanding wine of exceptional complexity and character. In short, these are terrific wines. |
80 - 89:
A barely above average to very good wine displaying various degrees of finesse and flavor as well as character with no noticeable flaws. |
70 - 79:
An average wine with little distinction except that it is a soundly made. In essence, a straightforward, innocuous wine. |
60 - 69:
A below average wine containing noticeable deficiencies, such as excessive acidity and/or tannin, an absence of flavor, or possibly dirty aromas or flavors. |
50 - 59:
A wine deemed to be unacceptable. |
——转载自帕克网站。
这次给中国葡萄酒评分的是帕克团队的: Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW
Score |
酒 Wine |
85 |
Grace Chairman's Reserve 2008 |
83 |
Grace Deep Blue 2008 |
83 |
Grace Symphony Series 2008 |
82 |
Grace Chairman's Reserve 2005 |
82 |
Silver Heights The Summit 2007 |
81 |
Dynasty Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2006 |
81 |
Dynasty Premier Royal Selection Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve 2005 |
81 |
Dynasty Chardonnay Reserve 2006 |
80 |
Grace Tasya's Reserve Cabernet Franc 2008 |
78 |
Dynasty Sparkling NV |
78 |
Grace Premium Chardonnay 2008 |
78 |
Grace Tasya's Reserve Chardonnay 2008 |
78 |
Grace Tasya's Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 |
77 |
Grace Chardonnay 2008 |
76 |
Grace Premium Chenin Blanc 2008 |
75 |
Dynasty Medium Dry White NV |
75 |
Grace Tasya's Reserve Merlot 2008 |
74 |
Dynasty Muscat Sparkling NV |
69 |
Grace Premium Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot 2008 |
68 |
Grace Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 |
Silver Heights The Summit 2007
Grace Deep Blue 2008
这两个感觉分数偏低
两者都是常见的牌子,国内也有比他们更好喝的葡萄酒只是名气没那么响,更何况他们身在美国。品酒是个体力活,口感在最初的5分钟是最灵敏的。多了,我们自己喝酒也看心情和环境的,一瓶酒可能两种情况下口感上会完全不同呢。分数,看看就罢了。哈哈
Lisa was born and raised in rural Maine, USA. She attended Colby College in Maine and after graduating with a degree in English Literature in 1989, moved to London, England with designs on becoming a playwright. Still broke after having a few of her plays performed on the London “fringe”, and with the nagging necessity of college loan repayments not to mention the rent, Lisa decided to seek alternative employment. A friend offered her a job in a wine bar and before long she found herself managing the place. Wine soon became more than just a very small pay cheque. A growing passion for wine experiences enticed Lisa to pursue wine studies at London’s Wine and Spirit Education Trust where she went on to achieve her Diploma. She progressed to an on-trade sales position at one of London’s oldest wine merchants and subsequently worked in various sales and marketing roles in the London wine trade for a total of more than twelve years. In 2002 Lisa moved to Tokyo, Japan where she worked as a wine buyer for one of Japan’s top fine wine importers and a part-time wine educator for Tokyo’s Academie du Vin. She toured Japan’s wine producing regions and became involved in various viticulture and winemaking projects to improve the quality of wines made from local grapes. And from her base in Tokyo she took the opportunity to travel throughout Asia discovering the many cultures and opportunities for the unconventional enjoyment of wine. Lisa has since relocated to Singapore, her new base for pursuing her exploration of wine in Asia. In September 2008, after more than five years of rigorous study, palate work-outs and examinations, Lisa achieved her Master of Wine qualification. |
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