难得一喝的意大利酒活动酒款和产区介绍（二） Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso Santo Spirito 2008

难得一喝的意大利酒活动酒款和产区介绍（二）

Tenuta Delle Terre Nere Etna Rosso Santo Spirito 2008

产区：Etna DOC,  西西里岛

On our most recent trip we spent a few days on Mt Etna (the most active volcano in

Europe, and at about 11,000 feet the highest mountain south of the Alps). Etna is

quite spectacularly beautiful countryside – outside of the towns, most of the area is

protected parkland. It’s kind of odd to imagine living on an active volcano (after all,

we live in eruption-free, safe olde New York); the sound of gentle rain one night turned

out to have been an ash eruption (more like grainy sand than fireplace ash) that coated

everything, including the roads, which made driving even more interesting than it already

is in Sicily. Unlike, say, spending time around the San Andreas Fault, an active volcano

really makes its presence known.

Mt. Etna火山爆发的时候

On the plus side, volcanos make for great farming: once the deposits left by eruptions

have decayed, the soils are incredibly rich and fertile (for example some of the most

sought-after produce of Italy comes from Mt Vesuvius, near Naples; the tomatoes grown

there have their own protected geographical designation). After years of decline (flight to

the city, changing markets and drinking habits) grape growing is  thriving on Etna,

enjoying a renaissance that now ranges from tiny operations to the industrialist dreams

of big winemakers like Planeta. Winemaker Salvo Foti, working at places like Benanti,

is probably the one person most responsible for what’s happened on Etna, but from the

American perspective, the pioneer of the revival is Marc de Grazia, famous here for his

import agency which introduced us to many renowned Italian producers from Barolo and Montalcino. While the quality of those wines was/is indisputably high, to some extent the

de Grazia portfolio divided wine drinkers in opinion, because the wines tend(ed) to be very polished, aged in small oak barrels, and made very much in a ‘modern’ style.

On Etna, one cannot say that de Grazia has entirely abandoned this approach - selected

yeasts are employed for fermentations in steel, along with about 25% new oak for aging

(in different dimensions) - nonetheless the wines offer a transparent view of the terroir

that de Grazia is working – with old vines, low yields, organic farming, and no filtration

all making their important contribution. The grapes come from four of the best and most

important Etna vineyards (Calderara Sotana, Feudo di Mezzo, Guardiola, and Santo Spirito);

 tasting the wines side-by-side was a vivid demonstration of each vineyard’s expression –

as well as a testimony to devoted and skilled winemaking. There are other Etna wines that

might make our hearts beat faster (some coming from the very same vineyards), but anyone

 interested in wine from Etna owes it to themselves to experience these excellent wines and

the fascinating geography lesson they impart.

Mt. Etna安静的时候

The vineyards are at high elevations (at 800-900 metres, Guardiola is said to be the highest

altitude red-grape vineyard in Europe); the wines have freshness, structure, and energy

reminiscent of Burgundy and Barolo. Nerello Mascalese – the primary red grape of Etna –

can deliver great complexity and finesse; it can also age well

酒评：

The 2008 Etna Rosso Santo Spirito is dark, inviting and exceptionally polished. The big tannins are there, but here there is so much sheer density in the fruit that the wine's structural components are barely noticeable. This shows marvelous intensity all the way through to the dark, harmonious finish. Licorice, tar, and smoke add the final dimensions of complexity. The Santo Spirito was aged in a combination of French oak barrique, tonneau and cask, in roughly equal proportions. This is one of the more sensual of the 2008s here. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2028.

Hard as it is to believe, proprietor Marc de Grazia continues to ratchet up the quality at Tenuta delle Terre Nere, his property on Mount Etna. Simply put, these are the most brilliant wines I have ever tasted from de Grazia. The 2008 reds will require patience, however. With one exception, the Don Peppino, the reds are 98% Nerello Mascalese and 2% Nerello Cappuccio and are aged in cask. My only regret is that I was not able to taste the Vigne Niche, the estate's top white.

Antonio Galloni （WA) : 95;

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