意大利膜拜酒庄Miani，一瓶难求

意大利膜拜酒庄Miani，一瓶难求

Miani酒庄是义大利东北部Friuli区最出色的酒庄之一，庄主Enzo Pontoni不但独具酿酒天份且勤劳认真，没有结婚的他，就住在葡萄园旁的简单农舍中，全心全力照顾位於Buttrio和 Rosazzo两个小村落山坡上约15公顷的葡萄园。Enzo只採用自然农法，不压迫葡萄的天生成长与结果，所以结成葡萄品质极高但收成量稀少，加上所有Miani酒款从种植到酿造，几乎都是Enzo Pontoni一人坚持手工完成，各酒款的装瓶数最多不超过2,500瓶，最少也只有600瓶，而且Enzo Pontoni极為坚持高品质的控管，不达心目中标準便捨弃不装瓶，所以每年总產量最多也仅不到8,000瓶，是全球葡萄酒迷用尽各种方式都不见得能搜集到的罕见佳酿。Miani擅长的多款白酒，品质超凡，一向被认為是全世界最顶尖的膜拜佳酿；而本年度台湾区最新配额的两款单一园Merlot红酒，更被酒迷誉為捧著大笔钞票排队也买不到的稀世珍酿。

Miani酒庄位於义大利东北部Friuli区中Colli Orientali del Friuli產区的一个小型酒庄，庄主Enzo Pontoni从90年代开始接手父亲的庄园，在拥有及租来位於Buttrio和 Rosazzo两个小村落山坡上约15公顷的葡萄园中，主要种植当地原先品种如Tocai Friulano, Ribolla Gialla, Refosco, Tazzelenghe, Pignolo等和已经在当地普遍种植许久的国际品种如Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon等。年近50岁、身高近两米的Enzo Pontoni，是个相当辛勤的果农，所有农事皆亲力亲為，没有结婚的他，几乎把所有的时间与精神都投注在葡萄园中。為了就近照顾葡萄，他就住在葡萄园旁的简单农舍中，每天忙进忙出，几乎只有午晚餐与睡觉时间才稍事休息。如此的辛勤付出，葡萄给了他最好的回报，绝佳品质的葡萄，让他能满意的酿造出极為优异的各式红白酒款。

Miani的葡萄大多数种植於1950~60年代之间，负责Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate意大利酒评的Antonio Galloni不禁提到: “… I remember visiting the estate a few years back and trying (without any luck) to purchase a few bottles. Pontoni showed me his allocations. I assumed we were looking at case allocations, but the numbers turned out to be bottles! ...anyone who has the good fortune to find these bottles should not hesitate, they are among the finest wines being made in Italy today!"

庄主，Enzo Pontoni

Robert Parker的WA对Miani的评价和介绍，由Antonio Galloni撰写：

“Enzo Pontoni is simply on another planet. In the best years his wines frankly have no peers in Italy. The textural richness and depth Pontoni coaxes from his old-vine parcels is a marvel.”
- Antonio Galloni, Wine Advocate

Miani is one of the crown jewels in the world of wine. Proprietor Enzo Pontoni excels with a range of both whites and reds that are typically monumental. That is the good news. The bad news is that Pontoni releases a mere 8,000 bottles from 18 hectares of vineyards, which means the wines are very hard to source. Yields are tiny and selection is Draconian, first in the vineyards and later in the cellar, where Pontoni is especially demanding when it comes what goes into the bottle.

Miani’s wines are always nearly impossible to find, but in 2009 they are worth the extra effort.
The 2002 is another eye-opening wine. The year is mostly remembered for its cool, wet summer and a number of dilute, uninteresting wines. Not here. The 2002 Masseto will go down as one of the handful of truly great wines made that year. I imagine in ten or twenty years it will be fascinating to taste alongside Miani’s Merlot, Soldera’s Brunello Riserva and Conterno’s Monfortino. There is no question the wine is in that league. Today the 2002 remains a baby, with tons of depth in its dark fruit. Hints of rose petal and spice develop in the glass, adding further complexity. There is plenty of structure

美国著名零售商Crush Wine Company 对Miani的介绍：

There's really very little left to say here. As we wrote recently, Pontoni's Miani wines are among the most fascinating and powerful, most difficult to find, most hotly sought after in all of Italy.

Miani’s whites are dramatic wines. The most appropriate comparison must be the great whites of Coche-Dury. Both producers create wines of flamboyant richness, both are ruthlessly driven, powerful wines that somehow carry all their muscle and velvet with elegance.

With praise like that, you might expect that Pontoni and his wines made under the Miani label would be more widely known...But then you have to consider that Pontoni makes no more than 800 cases TOTAL per year, spread across nine different cuvées. Production on today's 2009 Miani Rosso qualifies as miniscule.

Enzo Pontoni is considered a bit of a recluse; until recently, the winery was little more than a garage with a few barrels - his mother lives above the small operation.

Indeed reports of those who have tried to visit the estate are mostly with meeting his mother; Enzo himself is nearly always in the vineyards, which are tucked away in one of Italy's most obscure and enigmatic regions, the Friuli.
Specifically, Miani's vines are in Friuli's Collio Orientali, an area that's thought to be Friuli's best subregion. Collio Orientali's slopes are famous for their Ponca soils, which are marl with limy marine deposits. The soils are credited with giving the region's wines their streak of bright elegance - an element that Miani is able to highlight better than most, providing a most extreme balance to the wine's coating and dense fruit.

Within the Collio Orientali, Miani's vineyards reside in what are considered the area's "Grand Crus," the towns of Buttrio and Rosazzo. Here he is notoriously fastidious about tending his vines - which are often on terraced slopes and of formidable age - with absolute devotion. He's known for selecting only the best fruit to be brought back to the winery and, once there, he's equally ruthless with barrel by barrel selection for what will be bottled and what will be sold off.
The results of such extreme dedication and militant vineyard work are wines that are rich, powerful and extremely textured, yet wines that are simultaneously balanced, detailed and mineral driven.

While all of Miani's wines are fiercely sought out by those "in the know," the reds have to be considered his real cult wines. The 2009 Rosso is no exception. The vintage was, like most other regions in Europe, a ripe year with heat waves. Miani made very good white wines in 09, but he made especially great reds, as the vintage played directly to his strengths in coaxing such depth and richness - such decadence yet with restraint - out of the fruit.

End

看成Miami了。。。有机会搞次小桌品尝？崇敬对酿酒有着神圣使命感的人

长的这样怪不得未婚，还身高近两米。。

六月开始每天刷N次屏。。

哈哈哈，他没有碰到叶塞尼亚

宝马中的迷你！有味道！怪才！