This estate is ancient, and may be as old as 800 years, although the first document describing its existence in any detail dates to 1560. At this time the estate, then known as Grange de Beauvenir, was owned by the noble Tulle de Villefranche family, who originated from Piedmont. Under their tenure the wines enjoyed a good reputation and seem to have passed the lips of many of the notables of the day, and were also served at the court of Louis XVI. By 1736 work on the château, which still stands today, had already begun, although some of the cellars still in use date to the 16th Century. At the midpoint of the 18th Century there were 50 hectares of vines, the produce of which were widely distributed around Europe. It is even reported that the family were bottling the wine on the estate in 1784, predating similar action in Bordeaux by well over a century.
It was Phylloxera that led to the decline in the vineyard''s fortunes, the Tulle de Villefranche family selling it on in 1870 to Commandant Joseph Ducos, who undertook the revitalisation of the ailing vineyard. His determination brought him some success, both with La Nerthe and with Châteauneuf du Pape as a whole. At La Nerthe he experimented with planting different varieties, many of which still play a role in the Châteauneuf blend as defined by the appellation regulations of today; he also rescued the estate from Phylloxera by the grafting of his vines onto resistant American rootstock. He progressed on to become mayor of the town, and subsequently deputy of the Vaucluse region, and was also the first leader of the Syndicat Viticole, an association of local vignerons. Despite the sterling efforts of Ducos, however, the estate subsequently went into decline during the 20th Century. It was saved from despair by the Richard family in 1986, following the advice of Alain Dugas, an accountant-turned-winemaker who had worked at Domaine de la Renjarde for fifteen years. Dugas subsequently took on a supervisory role at La Nerthe.
The terroir at La Nerthe is absolutely typical of the region; the vineyard runs along a slope, at the top of which the vines dig their roots into soils of sandy-clay, although on the surface there is a layer of the famous galettes, large, round, well-worn stones that originated in the Alps, having been carried down to the Rhône by the glaciers of previous ice ages. The further down the slope of the vineyard you travel, the more these stones dominate. They ameliorate the evaporation of precious rainfall which quickly runs off into the deeper soil, and they also retain and reflect heat, creating a favourable mesoclimate particularly for varieties such as Mourvèdre which, even in this southerly clime, still benefit from the additional warmth. The vines themselves are located in a single block of 90 hectares around the château (an unusual arrangement for the appellation) and have an average age of 40 years, although some can claim a century. All thirteen of the permitted Châteauneuf varieties are planted, with Grenache dominant, accounting for 62% of the red vineyard. Then follows Syrah (18%), Mourvèdre (15%) and Cinsaut (4%), the remaining eligible varieties accounting for only a tiny proportion. Of the white vines, 32% are Roussanne, 28% Clairette, 24% Bourboulenc and 16% Grenache Blanc. The fruit is harvested by hand, with careful attention to ensure each variety is picked at the appropriate time; with so many different varieties in the typical Châteauneuf vineyard, the temptation to save time, money and effort by picking all together is not inconsiderable. Once harvested, it can be seen that the yield is typically in the region of 25-30 hl/ha.
The fruit is brought up to the cellar on a conveyor belt, where it is sorted to eliminate unwanted, spoiled berries, and where it is destemmed. The red grapes are vinified in wood, with pigeage to submerge the floating cap of skins and pips; some but not all varieties will be co-fermented, beginning at around 28ºC and finishing typically at 30 to 35ºC. Once judged by tasting to be ready, the wine is run off by gravity into further vats, either wooden or epoxy-lined stone, for the malolactic fermentation. Subsequent ageing depends on the varieties and style of the wine; in general, wines based on Grenache and Cinsaut age in stone vats, whereas blends of Grenache and Syrah go into large foudres, and those incorporating Mourvèdre into small wooden fûts of Allier oak. The press wine is not incorporated. The white grapes are pressed and the juice fermented in stainless steel or wood, sometimes after a little skin contact. The malolactic fermentation is discouraged for the whites. Once the wines are ready for bottling, they are first assembled, with special attention to the estate''s two special cuvées, Les Cuvée des Cadettes and the lesser-known white Clos de Beauvenir, as well as the red and white Château La Nerthe and also the second wine, Granières de la Nerthe. The famed Cuvée des Cadettes is sourced from a plot of vines planted by Ducos, and is mainly Grenache and Syrah, the former slightly dominant, with less Mourvèdre. Like many of the Châteauneuf super-cuvées, it sees new wood, which means some view it as the greatest possible expression of Châteauneuf, whereas others see something quite the opposite. (22/2/07, updated 23/1/08)
Contact details:
Address: 84230 Châteauneuf du Pape
Telephone: +33 (0) 4 90 83 70 11
Fax: +33 (0) 4 90 83 79 69
Internet: www.chateaulanerthe.fr