INTRODUCTION TO Nature Wine, ORGANICS & BIODYNAMICS 自然酒和生物动力法的一些介绍介绍

BIODYNAMIC VITICULTURE…

is a method of organic farming emphasizing the holistic development and interrelationships of the soil, plants and animals as a self-sustaining system.

Based on Rudolph Steinert’s 1924 lectures, biodynamics have much in common with other organic approaches, and emphasizes the use of manures and composts, and excludes the use of any artificial chemicals on soils and plants.

Unlike organic, biodynamic wine refers to both the agricultural methods and the handling and processing of the fruit post-harvest. 

For a vineyard to be considered biodynamic, the wine-grower must use nine specific preparations, as originally described by Rudolph Steinert. These preparations are made from cow manure, quartz (silica), and seven medicinal plants, and target to replenish and add vitality to the soils and plants via sprays or solid composts applied at specific times of the year, following astral calendar. (Whereas traditional farming typically deteriorates or subtract the vitality of the soil without replenishing it).

NATURAL WINE…

Considered by most as a physical reaction against the excesses of the 20^th Century’s chemical farming and additive based winemaking, the natural wine movement has seen a strong development in Europe, and in France in particular, over the past 50 years.

Under the helm of Jules Chauvet (winemaker/chemist specialized in the study of yeasts, malolactic fermentation, and carbonic maceration) and Marcel Lapierre (Beaujolais “supernatural winemaker”), natural wines have grown in reputation and in representation on the wine lists of the finest culinary establishments around the world. (Most of the best bistrots, wine bars, and restaurants in Paris, Tokyo, New-York, etc… are now proudly revendicating their advocacy for this healthier and more natural wine consumption).

Although not internationally recognized nor certified, “Natural wines” remains an umbrella term for producers who are more defined by what they leave out of their winemaking processes at any given point, than by what they put in.

In essence, Natural wine producers are interested in the purity of their work rather than in the physical perfection of the result.

Aside from the efforts placed in the vineyards to embrace organic or biodynamic farming practices (see article in this matter), natural wines are usually categorized as such according to their low level of sulphite.

Sulfur has been used for centuries as an anti-bacterial agent and remains heavily used in winemaking as an additive to prevent bacterial development and oxidation. (Sulphur, possesses a unique property of binding with oxygen molecules, which results in a protection against oxidation). 

As earth contains sulphur (organic), any fruit, vegetable, eggs, or even our body, naturally also contains it. Hence, all wines contains sulphites, even in the offerings bottled without any So2 added at any given point (up to 10mg / liter).

So why the necessity for a natural wine movement?

While the EU legally authorizes conventional winemakers to use up to 400mg of sulphur dioxide (SO2) per liter (160mg for red, 210mg for white and rose, 400mg for sweet wines), natural winemakers restrict themselves to a maximum use of 30mg/liter, the addition of SO2, if any, being done during bottling process. (Source AVN –Association des Vins Naturels).

Under EU regulations, any wine containing more than 10mg/l of sulphure dioxide must be labelled as “contains sulphites”. (A rather useless regulation when any wine naturally already contains a minimum of 10mg/l of organic sulphur).

While organic and biodynamic bodies of certification such as AB or Demeter impose their respective restrictions for the wines carrying their logos, a well made natural wine, even with a sole addition of SO2 during bottling process, will always have less than half the levels of SO2 recommended by the strictest organizations.

The following table compares the maximum permitted levels of sulphur dioxide under EU regulations, with those of the leading organic and biodynamic bodies of certification. The last column pertains to the maximum SO2 content found in the wines distributed by Root Cellar. (In accordance to the certificates of analyses provided to CIQ authorities upon custom clearance).

With the above numbers in mind, it is interesting to understand the possible health hazards and implication resulting to wine (and therefore SO2) consumption.

The World Health Organization recommends a maximum daily intake of 0.7 mg of sulphur dioxide per kilogram of bodyweight. Hence, with the EU regulation enabling conventional winemakers to bottle wines containing up to 210 mg of sulphur per liter, it would mean that for a man of average weight, the maximum consumption of white wine should be capped to a third of a bottle.

Regular consumption of conventional wines simply implies an excess of the RDA (Recommended Dietary Allowance) of sulphur dioxide by a large margin. (Wine is not only the only bioproduct with high levels of SO2; dried apricots are known to contain 10 times more sulphite than a glass of wine…).

More specifically, sulphur dioxide can cause severe allergic reaction, as well as being extremely dangerous for individuals with asthmatic conditions, even at low levels. Finally, and most importantly for us (wine lovers), sulphur dioxide significantly contributes to hangovers… Heavy drinkers (or those who like to appreciate good things in larger quantity) who need to get up in the morning are advised to stick to natural wines!

In essence, drinking natural wine is better for the environment (issued from organic and sustainable farming practices), better for your health (less harmful amount of sulphur dioxide), and simply taste as good and natural as wine gets! (Not to mention that you are supporting a genuine artisan perpetuating his family artistry... not an insurance company owned chateau…).